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Wharf Street– a street of no return, more often than not.  The cobblestones seem charming a Maine summer day, but they’re only a minute detail which adds a bit of history to this narrow road housing many Portland restaurants.  Cinque Terre, Vignola’s sister restaurant lays between Vignola and the Bar of Chocolate.  I had only been once before my most recent visit, and I must say, it’s come a long way, in the past two years– in both good and bad terms.

It was a Wednesday evening, right after Christmas, when I found myself sitting at Cinque Terre.  There was one server on, with a few back-servers, but everything was under-control.  The menu boasts the usual “locally grown and sourced ingredients” from not only the staple farms, but Cinque Terre’s own farm.  The actual size of the menu is a bit larger than I expected, but at the same time, I felt it to be manageable, due to the fact that not everything was incredibly appealing.  Along with my company, I ordered the trio of oysters, one fried, one baked, and one raw, and the rabbit bruschetta to start.  The raw oyster was by far the most notable.  Who can dislike a Winterpoint oyster anyway? The baked one was by far the least successful.  I don’t see the point of masking the delicate flavor of oyster with a bunch of breadcrumbs and herbs and garlic? The bruschetta on the other had was quite nice.  Perfectly braised rabbit with crispy proscuitto on top of grilled bread? Delicious.  The side salad of lightly dressed arugula offered a clean bite, whenever the rabbit proved to be too rich.

Following our starters, our medium sized plates began to arrive.  The mussels in white wine sauce, were not bad, nor were they great.  The standard mussels in butter and white wine for me, is never impressive.  The company enjoyed them quite a lot however, perhaps only because of their affinity for mussels.  I found them to be boring, and a bit too garlicky.

Our two pasta dishes, being the rigatoni with fresh mozzeralla and tomato sauce, and the gnocchi with brown butter and truffles, were both good.  The rigatoni was actually the best thing I ate all night.  Cooked to a perfect al-dente, with crispy basil on top, the flavors married together, and in this instance, the old notion that simple is better, reigned supreme.  The gnocchi, while good, was a bit overbearing.  The portion size was small, but we couldn’t finish it, the sauce was incredibly rich and decadent.  Unfortunately the lack of contrast in texture was incredibly disappointing.  Had they perhaps, pan-seared the gnocchi, it would have been better, but the flavors were all there.

For entrees, we agreed to split two items, due to the fact that we were already quite full from all the prior courses.  The lobster risotto and the braised rabbit with crispy polenta were our choices.  Unfortunately, neither were very impressive.  The lobster risotto wasn’t cooked to my liking.  It lacked the creaminess that I’ve grown quite fond of in other restaurant’s risottos.  In addition, the lobster was so overcooked! The chalky texture was horrendous, in fact, at one point, I thought I almost threw up a little bit in my mouth.  The red peppers and excess of salt were also big contributors to the downfall of the risotto.  On the other hand, the rabbit dish was a bit better.  Not cooked nearly as well as the bruschetta, this rabbit was a bit more tough, and the overall dish was quite one note.  The polenta cakes were quite satisfying on the plus side.  Unfortunately, there just wasn’t anything that stood out in this dish.  It was decent, at best.

Having been quite disappointed with the entrees, I hoped dessert would be considerably better– as my own philosophy regards dessert as the pinnacle of every meal, I tend to have quite high expectations.  And they were met.  I ordered the banana date cake, and oh my god, it did not disappoint.  The flavor affinity of banana, caramel, and rum always appease my taste buds.  The cake, which had a nice like marscapone vanilla bean frosting, was light and airy.  The flavor of banana, in the cake, and then paralleled with the caramelized bananas on the side, was very present, thus I was a happy camper.  I was glad that Cinque Terre was able to end the meal on a good note.  Their pastry chef, as it’s been said, is quite talented, and I whole-heartedly agree.

While the meal was nowhere as close to as fun as my first meal there, this is when they had large chunks of fresh truffles on top of their pasta, but shitty service, I enjoyed my time to say the least.  Next time I know just to order pasta, appetizers, and dessert.  The one thing I wish I had ordered was their house limoncello– which sounds divine.  I’d recommend going for happy-hour and a small bowl of pasta before a film or a trip to the museum or something.  Skip the overpriced entrees, but indulge in some carbohydrate deliciousness + some sweets.

so excited for restaurant week.  reservations at bresca, bar lola, vignola, the salt exchange, and of course a necessary trip to either sonny’s or local just for kicks.  i’m uploading photos from my valentine’s day dinner with samuel (it was actually on saturday, i don’t like doing things on monday evenings…) and i’ll post them soon.  until then, enjoy your champagne, roses, chocolates, and candlelight.  i’m going to be busy writing a paper, and correcting a math exam.

-e

prelude: my apologies for being a lazy blogger as of recent times.  i’ve been rather busy with life, and i haven’t spent too much time in the kitchen, nor have i been out and about recently, so i’ve been low on material.  but no worries- i plan on cooking a lot this week- tomorrow night a champagne cake, a birthday feast on wednesday, and a roasted chicken on sunday.  last week i roasted a lovely bird, with very humble ingredients and it came out tender and crispy- but i misplaced my camera and decided that it would be pointless to post about it.  but let’s discuss VIGNOLA.

last evening, i had an 8pm reservation at vignola with some of my dearest family members, so that we could celebrate my mother’s birthday properly.  it was not my first time dining there, but i hadn’t been in quite sometime- perhaps a year or two? previous visits sufficed my taste buds, but i had pretty terrible run ins with wait staff, seating, and overall ambiance.  much has changed at vignola since those impressions were made, and i can truthfully say, i was in raptures all evening.  the ambiance was perfect- very classy, but edgy, and didn’t feel stuffy, or too modern.  the decor, i’ve always enjoyed, they’ve rigged their light fixtures into bunches of wine bottles ( did i mention vignola is known for their vino?) and of course their wine closet is surrounded by glass and open for admiration.  the kitchen is partially visible, and its shared with their sister restaurant, cinque terre.  the staff was fantastic- mainly because two servers switch between vignola and local 188, and their house sommelier, chris (who just returned from spain), was available to chat with and have make suggestions for wine pairings with your entree.

a good ten minutes after we sat, a bottle of cava brut rose  (vintage 2004, hell yeaa $45/bottle) was sent over from an absent member of my clan.  this cava brut was fantastic because the flavors were complex, the red aspect was still full bodied, and it was light, with floral undertones.  not to mention it paired well with the oysters i ordered.  i’ve always enjoyed roses, but this was superb.  it’s from the conca de barbera region of espana, and is made by roger goulart.  i found the aging to be perfect, because it maintained a freshness, but still maintained hints of old subtleties.

happy birthday mom! i’m glad you were born into this world, and i’m incredibly happy that we could celebrate your birthday with our loved ones over a fantastic meal.  thank you for everything you’ve ever done for me- specifically, insisting that i can accomplish whatever i want to, and encouraging my love of food and cooking.   without you, my passion would be overlooked, and i would probably be pursuing something ridiculous like law.

vignola has a nice deal where you pick four cheeses for $20, and because i was given the title, boss lady last evening, i picked all four.  now i’m not a big fan of bleu cheese, and vignola does have a small selection of that variety, but i stayed with cow’s milk, goat, and sheep, to start the night.  i picked a piave, from northern italy, it’s a hard cow’s cheese, that is sharp, and has a sweet after-taste.  cheese number two was a mahon, a cow’s cheese from espana, that is nutty, and almost, spicy? cheese three was undoubtedly the raschera, from italy again, and it’s a soft sheep and goat milk cheese, that mimics a very nice variety of brie, but has a  buttermilk flavour.  our final cheese was a buenalba from espana- it was intended to be a soft, but it was crumbly nonetheless.  upon reading the description i was scared it was similar to a gorgonzola, a cheese i really dislike, but it was so different.  it was sharp, and had a fruity undertone, which i was very impressed with.  our cheese was served with preserved figs and seasonal fruits, spiced walnuts, and homemade focaccia.

now i suppose i should let you know how much i love oysters.  i’ve always loved seafood, fresh fresh seafood, and because of the fact that i’ve grown up in maine, i’ve always gotten the best of the best.  one of my fondest memories is eating an oyster out of the penobscot, right after it being harvested.  no lemon, no tabasco, just fresh 20 year old oyster, with the waters of the penobscot to was it down.  since then, i guess my expectations for oysters have been raised considerably, and i was very pleased with the oysters i ate last evening.  pleased for a few reasons.  first and foremost because they were incredibly fresh, and they were harvested in winterpoint, plus they were served with shallots and an allagash mignonette, and second because they were free of charge.  the lemon wasn’t necessary- just because the mignonette had a fresh squeeze of lemon juice, and the shallot cut the acidity.  they were properly chilled, they were cleaned, and thankfully, there was no trace of sand, which made me very grateful.  another reason why i really liked the oysters at vingola is because you can buy a single oyster, and you’re not restricted to purchasing a dozen or half a dozen.  the single oyster option is perfect for me, because i typically can eat two or three, and no more.  so unlike street & co. and j’s oyster, vignola gives you the power to choose the amount of the sea’s greatest delicacy you’d like to consume.

our lovely sommelier came over after our entrees had been ordered and listened to us discuss our taste in wine, and he brought us a bottle of valderiz, vintage 2004 (from espana, $60 a bottle) that he thought would pair well with all of our dinner choices.  this wine was dry, aged perfectly, had undertones of caramel and nuts, with an overtone of deep spicy fruit flavors.  chris told us about the grapes that are used for this win, they’re grown in an ancient riverbed on 75 acres of tomas esteban’s vineyard located in the Roa region of the Ribgera del Duero (there are 20 different locations where tomas grows his grapes).  the grapes are pressed slightly as to preserve the flavor, and the grapes are exposed to very drastic temperatures.  in the daytime, the average temperature at the vineyards ranges from 110-115 degrees, and during the evening the temperature drops rapidly to 40 degrees.  this change in temp, ensures that the grapes age slowly and thoroughly, giving them a smokey, chocolate flavor that is also detectable in this wine.  we all realized that 2004 was a very good year for spanish wines, and later chris explained that it was by far the best year in the past 100 years.  furthermore, after a bit of research on my end, the valderiz 2004 was named one of the finest ribgera del duero wines in existence.  it’s estimated now, that the valderiz 2004 will be drinkable and rich until 2030, so long live this strain of fine wine.  it was well worth the $60 spent.

it’s been a while since i’ve fallen head over heels for an entree ( i believe the last one was the duck that the old walter’s used to prepare, or the sole francaise from street & co.) but vignola’s lamb meatballs served with crispy polenta, and a black forest mushroom ragu was so much more than i ever expected.  the lamb was tender, juicy, succulent (i am pullin’ out all the adjectives here, aren’t i?) the ragu? i can’t even explain.  the mushrooms almost tasted like chorizo, but there was this savoriness about them that i can barely convey into words.  the polenta.  OH my god.  i am probably the biggest fan of polenta out there.  and i’m pretty confident that i make a really good polenta cake, but this… this was the best polenta i’ve ever consumed.  the crust was perfectly fried and season with olive oil, salt n pepper, and it formed a very nice contrast with the soft, almost mashed potato like polenta inside.  it melted in my mouth.  i wanted to eat it over and over again.  mixed with the ragu and the meatballs, it was out of this world.  just a cascade of flavors in my mouth.  so perfect.  so simple.  made my night… especially with a nice glass of the valderiz i mentioned above (many times).

two out of the four people in my party ordered the top sirloin steak with a red wine shallot reduction, local fingerling mashed potatoes, and a frisee salad on top.  both ordered their steak medium, and both steaks were served medium rare, but neither seemed to mind.  both thought that the steak was cooked perfectly- it was tender, juicy and flavorful, and they also agreed that the mashed potatoes were out of this world.  the texture was perfect- not whipped, not grainy, but soft, and heaven-like.  yes, you can describe potatoes with the adjective heaven-like.  the only topic at hand that the ladies disagreed on was the red wine shallot reduction.  my mother loved hers, she said it was sweet, and that it contrasted wonderfully with the frisee salad, and the potatoes.  but my aunt very much disliked the sauce.  she said it was overpowering, almost artificially sweet, and took away from the overall flavor of the steak.  then again, she didn’t even want the steak to begin with- she ordered the grilled shrimp with crispy polenta (A+) with a tomato and red pepper ragu.  they were out of that dish 20 minutes before we arrived unfortunately, so she made a rash decision and decided on the steak.  if i had to agree with either of the ladies, i’d probably side with my aunt, only because lately, sauces have been overbearing for me, and they seem to take away from the natural flavor of the protein on your plate.  perhaps if they served the meat with a smaller amount of sauce, it would have been okay, but to me, it looked like the sirloin was just kinda swimming in the deep end of the red wine shallot reduction pool.

i had no problem finishing my meal, even though i had oysters and cheese ahead of time.  the other person in our party indulged in a pepperoni pizza- a dish that i don’t exactly care for, but as i heard from her and the rest of my family, was quite delicious.  by the time i wanted to take a photo of the ‘zza it was gone, so i don’t have too much to say on that end, besides the fact, that vignola makes affordable pizzas with a very thin crust, with fresh tomato sauce, and good meats.  the cheese, i also heard was a beautiful melting cheese- i have a hunch that it was the taleggio cheese that my waitress recommended in place of the coca de roma that i inquired about.  i didn’t take her suggestion though, and decided on the buenalba instead, which i was, in part, grateful for.  vignola has certainly improved in all aspects, ambiance, overall quality, waitstaff, decor, and ingredients.  the time spent there was meaningful and well deserved.  our celebration for my mother was perfect, quaint, and intimate, just as we hoped, and the food and wine that we enjoyed was more than we all expected.  i’m going to have to say that i was thoroughly surprised by what i received, all the attention, all the quality organic products, and the hospitality exhibited by our waitress and the sommelier.  vignola is well worth the visit, especially if you’re seated where we were- the front right hand corner, overlooking wharf street in all its glory.  also- i hear they make a pretty snazzy brunch.  perhaps i’ll be making that trip sooner rather than later.  GO TO VIGNOLA.

enfin

(ps) this week renders a champagne blackberry cake, surprise birthday menu, and a tutorial on how to roast the perfect chicken.  i swear i won’t be a lazy blogger anymore.

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