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It’s been over a year sine Nosh Kitchen Bar opened its doors to the Portland foodies who had a taste for truffles and pork belly.  Invading the White Heart’s space, Nosh seemed to be a cleaned up version of the dive where the late night stragglers of Portland could go and grab drinks and food that was actually quality in comparison to Bill’s and Becky’s Late Night Window.  With items such as Banh Mi (vietnamese sandwiches), bacon dusted fries, the apocalypse now burger, and tuna carpaccio, it’s understandable why foodies might be drawn to the flashiness of Nosh.  And while I’ve dined there a total of three times, I can’t say that I can follow the Nosh parade.  Unfortunately, the food prepared at Nosh is too extravagant, and too heart clogging for me.  I’d prefer a plate of lettuce and tofu, over a burger with pate, eggs fried in truffle oil, shaved black truffles, and crispy pork belly.  The trend in calorie rich food, with a luxurious flare, has never caught on with me.  My own philosophy in regards to extravagant ingredients like truffles, pork belly, and the sort is that they should be used in moderation, only to accentuate the dish you’re opting to serve, and they should never overpower the overall flavor of the focal point of your dish.  This is why I don’t get along with the menu at Nosh- it’s just not my style.  But I made a sacrifice and ate there about a month ago with my boyfriend who had yet to experience Nosh at it’s full caliber. [disclaimer]: the food at nosh may in fact provoke high cholesterol, heart attacks, and the sort- prepare yourself upon arriving at this local haunt.

We were lucky- seeing as we scored seats in the “lounge”- as all the other seats were full.  Sprawling out on the couch, we decided on starting with the NOSHos, with homemade tortilla chips, melty ooey gooey cheese, hamburg, and chives.  This proved to be way heavier than I thought it would be.  The cheese was overpowering to say the least, and all in all, once we were done, I felt like there was a rock in my stomach.  Sam agreed with me- not particularly liking the Noshos himself.

For my entree I opted for just a cheeseburger- I wanted simple, nothing too crazy or luxurious.  I wanted to be able to taste the meat.  While my burger was not cooked medium, I forgave them, due to the ample amount of lettuce that the provided me with.  A few slices of red onions, mayonnaise, and american cheese rounded of the burger, and all in all I was pleased.  My only complaint happens to be about the meat itself- which I suppose speaks to the same sentiment I started this review with.  They went a bit overboard– in my opinion– when it came to seasoning to the meat.  Too much oregano, I suppose, but the flavor of the beef was absent, and I found myself wondering why I had an overwhelming taste of oregano on my palate.

Sam thought that the bacon dusted fries sounded good- but we chose to go with sea salt and pepper instead.  All in all, the fries were pretty good, and the aioli they were served with- the chipotle aioli, was delicious.  But at this point, I didn’t really want anymore fried food.

Sam went for the namesake burger- Nosh Burger, which was topped with blue cheese, bacon, fried egg, and garlic jam on a grilled brioche roll.  In the above picture you can see the egg yolk dripping down the side- perhaps thats the only thing that would ever make me  consider getting this.  While Sam ate his entire burger, he later told me that he was unimpressed, and that, similar to me, Nosh didn’t seem to offer the type of food which he enjoyed.  Let’s just say this shocked me.  For him to admit that his burger was too much… is quite a significant feat.  Since then, I’ve been toying with the idea of dragging him to the Green Elephant for some vegan fare, but I suppose he’s not at that stage yet!

Sam’s favorite part about Nosh was their Miss Pac-Man game.  He played four of five rounds, and though he wasn’t a high scorer, he was pleased.  Nosh proves not to be my cup of tea, but for the foodies out there who love truffle oil, pork belly, pate, and the sort, Nosh should be on your list of places to go upon your arrival in Portland.  Jason Lorring, the owner of Nosh, is rumored to be opening up a taqueria across the street! I hope he gets over his affair with the ostentatious ingredients and instead opt for a more traditional route with his taqueria! If he goes down that path, I know that I will certainly enjoy the tacos he puts on his menu!!

are you getting tired of me reviewing local 188? surprise surprise! seeing as i work there now, i eat there more often.  and while i haven’t felt particularly inclined to bring my camera with me to capture the food i get to eat after shifts, or the staff meals that trent and the crew cooks up for us, but anna dragged me up to local on friday evening for a night out, and needless to say, i was impressed and full upon leaving.

to start off the evening, a and i split the meatballs and the house salad, which per usual satisfied my tastebuds with the necessary goat cheese, arugula, and carrots.  the meatballs were savory, and had a nice coating of rich sauce, that helped preserve the tenderness and flavour that was captivated inside of the perfectly sized portions of meat with a generous amount of freshly shaved parmesan on top.

for the entree, i ordered two items off of the tapas/raciones lists.  the house-made gnocchi and the maple braised pork belly with pickled mustard seeds and scrambled eggs (what nicolas calls fancy breakfast, and i couldn’t agree more).  the gnocchi is a staple of mine, because for some reason, the manner in which local prepares there’s is unlike anything else i’ve ever tasted.  they almost resemble little pieces of perfectly fried potatoes soaked in a Serrano chili sauce with spanish almonds.  i guess i can truthfully say that i never tire of local’s gnocchi.

rewinding a bit, the braised pork belly with pickle mustard seed really tasted like a decadent breakfast, the maple glaze served the dual purpose of cutting the acidity from the mustard, while acting as a maple syrup atop super fancy bacon.  when i saw the hunk of meat before my eyes, i couldn’t help but think “this may be my last night alive,” that’s right, it strongly resembled a heart-attack, but it was so worth it, nonetheless.

desserts at local are made by trent and liz, and i for one, can’t find much more that can rise above these.  trent has been working at local for quite a while, since i was at least 8, and i work brunch with him currently.  i guess i agree with the statement that baking is a hereditary skill, because some people can, and others cannot.  luckily trent can (i too can bake quite well), and that’s why i love local’s desserts so much.  usually i settle on one dessert, but this time, a and i went all out, ordering the chocolate coconut bread pudding and tiramisu, which was rich and had a strong taste of rum, but still melted in my mouth.  the lady fingers were delicate, and the marscarpone topping was subtle, but added a layer of depth that i can’t give justice to through words.

as it’s difficult for me to describe the tiramisu, it’s even more difficult to describe the chocolate coconut bread pudding.  possibly the greatest dessert that’s ever met my palate.  those little bite-sized shreds of coconut paired with dark cacao, in the form of a cake that isn’t all through baked, so it melts in your mouth.  absolutely a bite of heaven that cannot be replicated in any way, shape, or form.

places like local are the places that inspire me to continue cooking.  they’re the ones that started my passion, and they’re the ones that propel me forward.  without culinary genius in this town, i’d be without a passion, without a cause, and without a satisfied appetite.  i want to thank jay and nicolas for being the masterminds behind local 188s menu, and i also want to thank all other chefs in this town who have impacted my tastebuds for better or for worse.

-e

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