Local Chef’s Corner: Nicholas Nappi of Local 188

In the past few years Jay Villani’s Local 188 has transformed from the little Bohemian Dive it was on 188 State Street in the early 2000s, into one of Portland’s hotspots. Much of this is in due part to the chef de cuisine of Local 188, Nicholas Nappi. With a very refined palate, innovative ideas, and a very clear passion for cooking, the menu has been changing, and is now expected to constantly change. Coming from humble beginnings at an Old Country Buffet, Chef Nappi did not attend culinary school but instead learned the basics from an unexpected place. Who knew that Old Country Buffet would teach their staff how to make rouxs, and proper rouxs mind you, as well as other vital skill-sets that any professional chef nowadays need to have!

If you’ve ever been into Local 188 on a busy Friday or Saturday night, there’s really no way you could miss Chef Nappi. He expedites on these evenings, and his voice certainly carries throughout the majority of the dining room and lounge area. Commanding respect in the kitchen, but also incredibly friendly to his back-of-the-house team, Nicholas understands the importance of a strong relationship between back-of-the-house workers. Much like Jay, he also agrees with the notion that education in any kitchen is imperative. I can’t tell you how many times he’s sworn to me, that Thomas Keller’s the French Laundry, taught him so much, and made him think in an entirely different way about the art of cooking. For a chef to be able to take so much from another chef, and not only learn, but apply these skill-sets, is at the very least, impressive. In addition to his openness to new techniques, it would only make sense that Chef Nappi also has been intrigued by the original work done at El Bulli and Alinea. Grant Achatz, is currently providing Chef Nappi with a lot of inspiration, with his sensitive plating techniques, use of sous-vide and emulsions, and his, what some might claim to be, “overly”-conceptual dishes. While the Chef might not be hanging strips of bacon from wires at the moment, he is taking the root of what Grant practices, to heart, while maintaining his own voice. This past August, yes, I know, quite sometime ago, I got the chance to sit down with Nicholas– who also doubles as my superior and mentor– to chat about where his passion stemmed from, his aspirations, and what inspires him in the kitchen.

On that late August day, when I was still working two jobs, we both took a moment out of our busy schedules to dabble in a game of tennis, which, for quite sometime, seemed to be a joke between the two of us. But there we were, in our tennis attire- my whites, and his mismatches, at Deering Oaks, trying to play a good game of tennis. That didn’t happen unfortunately, despite the fact that I had just spent a month being a counselor at a tennis camp in New Hampshire. Chef Nappi was truly aggravated by my lack of finesse and energy that I had brought to the courts those days. So what did we do instead? Well, we sat, and talked, and he smoked a cigarette. It was that day that I learned that his grandfather is by far his biggest role model. He spoke fondly of him, relaying anecdotes, and explaining that it was his grandfather who actually got him into tennis. The subjects definitely flew around, neither of us staying on the same topic for too long. He spoke of his early days at Local, working lunch with the infamous Trent, while maintaining night shifts with Jay and the crew, and a whole other job at a friend’s restaurant, which basically required him to sleep behind the bar in order to work all 4 shifts he had up there. Shortly after those were over, he’d speed down to Portland to make it into Local in time for prep.

Then came the talk about when Jay first let Chef Nappi do the ordering– which, according to Nicholas was quite unexpected. It seems, from what I gathered, and from Nicholas has said, that it was from then on, which he acquired a considerable amount more of responsibility. If you look at what Chef Nappi has accomplished, it’s actually both humbling and impressive. I know you’ve heard the standard rags to riches story, countless times in your day, but come on, Old Country Buffet, to being chef de cuisine at Local 188, without and formal culinary education? It’s impressive, if I do say so myself.

Chef Nappi has a critical eye for plate design, and while it’s true that most chefs possess this trait, it’s especially true for him. He’s quite meticulous about every last detail on plates, from the gels that he used quite recently on a rather delectable razor clam tapas special, to the way his scallops are placed atop of the sour orange aioli, and then adorned by the cute (though he might beg to differ) dehydrated kalamata olives. He’s archived many of the plates that he’s sent out to diners, on his smart-phone, so that he can “keep track” of what he’s done, and what he wants to do. He recognizes that in order for a restaurant to remain interesting, new things need to be developed constantly, whether it involves front or back of the house. Chef Nappi is all about the unexpected, which, I suppose is appropriate of course. It’s clear that Chef Nappi has quite the future ahead of him. Maybe some James Beard noms are in his future? I wouldn’t be surprised.

Sincere Regrets

(ive been too busy to stand still)

Hey everyone- happy September! I’m sorry I haven’t been around lately… (cue excuses) I’ve been so overwhelmed with the end of the summer, working two jobs, and my new classes.  Believe it or not, I’m sitting on a ton of material which I would love to share with you, but I’ve vowed to myself that I won’t publish any of it until I have created quality in-depth posts.  Tonight was my 16th shift in a row, which can only be followed by another 12 until I have a day off! I know that sounds insane, but I’m looking forward to the next two weeks or so.  I hope to have a post up soon regarding the 7-course dinner party I threw, two weeks back, followed by an interview with Local 188′s chef de cuisine, Nicholas Nappi, a L’Espalier review, a fried green tomatoes recipe, and some other tidbits of stuff here and there.  I’m going to allot myself three hours a week (at least) to maintain Vin et Grub, because the last thing I want is for it to go to the dogs (ha, for all those at Waynflete- Don’t Let’s Go to the Dogs Tonight).  So please, my dear readers, continue to check in every once and a while, and I promise, new material will soon be posted.

The last thing I would like to say is: come to Bresca, this Wednesday evening to join in on the best fun you’ll ever have.  Joe Ricchio’s Clash of the Titans Wine Dinner is still accepting reservations (though we only have enough room for 4 more people), and if I weren’t working, I’d most certainly be in attendance.  At $75 a head, your date night is all inclusive! Go to Portland Food Coma for more info.

 I promise, I’ll be good, I swear… eat some meat for me!

xx

enfin

surprise!

being young has it’s advantages.  the best advantage i’d have to say is my metabolism- but even over the past year or so, I’ve certainly noticed a difference in it’s speed.  I suppose there are some more advantages- not having to work, having my education paid for, living at home, and so on and so forth.  To clarify, it’s not that this sort of lifestyle isn’t what I’m looking for- because hey, up until this very moment, it’s the only one I’ve known, but rather, it’s that I’ve been thinking about the very fact that in a year, I’ll be off to start my life- without the help of my family, my school, or my friends.  So now is the time that I should spend enjoying those last few moments of youthfulness.  And perhaps the best way to do so is by paying particular attention to the things a kid my age should be.

I’ve never been a fan of high school- I mean, I like learning- but it’s the social scene and the stereotypes that kill me.  In fact, as a food blogger, and as a teenager, I often feel heavily criticized by restaurant staff who have generalized what teenagers do when they come to restaurants.  I’ve never thrown anyone under the bus before on this blog, but now’s the time to do so, because while dining in Portland is great for the most part- there have been a few instances at different restaurants that made me feel utterly self-conscience and belittled.  Street & Co. strikes me as the worst offense.  I am a frequent diner there- not as much as I dine at places like Local & Figa, but I go at least four times a year.   On the occasion that I vividly remember, I was dining with my really good friend Isaac, and while we were not of age, and rather short (I must add on his end..), our waitress seemed to be overly skeptical of us as diners.  She was condescending while reading the specials, annoyed at small requests, and even when our bill totaled $125 + a rather decent tip, she snubbed us at the door.  Hospitality like that, gets you nowhere in my opinion, and now Street & Co. has quite a tarnished reputation in my book.  Places like the Front Room, Walter’s, District, and Nosh have also yielded similar reactions.  It upsets me that many people have a permanent stereotype of teens- and yes, there are a good amount who tip poorly, who skip out on the check, who disturb the ambiance- but keep in mind that adults do that too.  It’s unfair to place the blame on every single teenage diner out there, because not all of us can speak to that stereotype.  It makes my job a lot more difficult, and also a narrow mind does nothing for one in the long run.

Thankfully, many restaurants do not act like that outwardly– perhaps they have their doubts about me as a diner, but the majority of restaurants in Portland have not treated me in a negative way.  Perhaps the one restaurant that I’m most comfortable at- without a doubt, and without bias- is Local 188.  Yes, I work there.  Yes, I know the staff.  But even before I worked there and was acquainted with the waiters and waitresses, I was comfortable.  They’ve never shunned me, nor have they ever acted in a condescending manner- and that really adds to their overall great impression that they’ve had on me ever since I started dining there when I was 9 or so.  Furthermore, this past weekend, after I got out of work, Local helped aid someone near and dear to me, to give me a surprise that would help me focus on my dwindling time as a youth.  Sam & I had visited Nosh for dinner, and while I wanted to go to Sonny’s for dessert, he insisted that we go to Local.  I was suspicious at first, because he had been there that day while I was working, but I didn’t think too much of it.  We ordered our desserts after sniping a table in the lounge- L3 to be exact, and we got drinks too.

Trent’s Lingoberry Layer Cake appealed to me, and Sam ordered the Mayan Chocolate Mousse, which was DECADENT and perhaps the best mousse I’ve ever had.  It was so light, fluffy, rich, and spicy, I can’t even convey what emotions it evoked when I took my first bite.  The chocolate was of great quality, and the sugar cookies that came as a side were divine too.

Now for my dessert, Sarah brought, not only the plate, but a gaggle of other coworkers who crowded around our table.  I was confused, but when I saw the plate, I understood.  Sam had been seeking a decent way to ask me to prom, and this was his chance.  Having schemed with Anna and Sarah, he had insisted she write prom in chocolate on my plate.  And that’s exactly what she did.  Obviously my answer was yes- who could refuse such a lovely dessert? So now, while I’m caught up in the midst of studying for SATs, a short trip to Boston for A+ dining, double shifts, and Easter chaos, I can also focus on something trivial- yet something most kids my age look forward to.  Prom.  It’s overrated in my opinion- but any occasion to dress up is worth that much.  I guess I can deal with being young for the next year or so, especially if it renders such a nice mix of triviality and seriousness.

staff meals @ local

working in a restaurant means good food- that is if you work in a restaurant that serves good food.  thankfully i do, and when we have staff meals every sunday afternoon- everyone leaves satiated and smiling.

michael’s sunset + bacon kale red bean soup

burger, fried egg, bacon, lettuce

hot toddies

julia!

ending brunch for the week

trent’s leftover fruit + house salad + english muffins + carribean spiced hash

chocolate chip pancakes

 

 

 

Local 188 (again) Winter Rendition

are you getting tired of me reviewing local 188? surprise surprise! seeing as i work there now, i eat there more often.  and while i haven’t felt particularly inclined to bring my camera with me to capture the food i get to eat after shifts, or the staff meals that trent and the crew cooks up for us, but anna dragged me up to local on friday evening for a night out, and needless to say, i was impressed and full upon leaving.

to start off the evening, a and i split the meatballs and the house salad, which per usual satisfied my tastebuds with the necessary goat cheese, arugula, and carrots.  the meatballs were savory, and had a nice coating of rich sauce, that helped preserve the tenderness and flavour that was captivated inside of the perfectly sized portions of meat with a generous amount of freshly shaved parmesan on top.

for the entree, i ordered two items off of the tapas/raciones lists.  the house-made gnocchi and the maple braised pork belly with pickled mustard seeds and scrambled eggs (what nicolas calls fancy breakfast, and i couldn’t agree more).  the gnocchi is a staple of mine, because for some reason, the manner in which local prepares there’s is unlike anything else i’ve ever tasted.  they almost resemble little pieces of perfectly fried potatoes soaked in a Serrano chili sauce with spanish almonds.  i guess i can truthfully say that i never tire of local’s gnocchi.

rewinding a bit, the braised pork belly with pickle mustard seed really tasted like a decadent breakfast, the maple glaze served the dual purpose of cutting the acidity from the mustard, while acting as a maple syrup atop super fancy bacon.  when i saw the hunk of meat before my eyes, i couldn’t help but think “this may be my last night alive,” that’s right, it strongly resembled a heart-attack, but it was so worth it, nonetheless.

desserts at local are made by trent and liz, and i for one, can’t find much more that can rise above these.  trent has been working at local for quite a while, since i was at least 8, and i work brunch with him currently.  i guess i agree with the statement that baking is a hereditary skill, because some people can, and others cannot.  luckily trent can (i too can bake quite well), and that’s why i love local’s desserts so much.  usually i settle on one dessert, but this time, a and i went all out, ordering the chocolate coconut bread pudding and tiramisu, which was rich and had a strong taste of rum, but still melted in my mouth.  the lady fingers were delicate, and the marscarpone topping was subtle, but added a layer of depth that i can’t give justice to through words.

as it’s difficult for me to describe the tiramisu, it’s even more difficult to describe the chocolate coconut bread pudding.  possibly the greatest dessert that’s ever met my palate.  those little bite-sized shreds of coconut paired with dark cacao, in the form of a cake that isn’t all through baked, so it melts in your mouth.  absolutely a bite of heaven that cannot be replicated in any way, shape, or form.

places like local are the places that inspire me to continue cooking.  they’re the ones that started my passion, and they’re the ones that propel me forward.  without culinary genius in this town, i’d be without a passion, without a cause, and without a satisfied appetite.  i want to thank jay and nicolas for being the masterminds behind local 188s menu, and i also want to thank all other chefs in this town who have impacted my tastebuds for better or for worse.

-e

anxious

so excited for restaurant week.  reservations at bresca, bar lola, vignola, the salt exchange, and of course a necessary trip to either sonny’s or local just for kicks.  i’m uploading photos from my valentine’s day dinner with samuel (it was actually on saturday, i don’t like doing things on monday evenings…) and i’ll post them soon.  until then, enjoy your champagne, roses, chocolates, and candlelight.  i’m going to be busy writing a paper, and correcting a math exam.

-e

i’ll be back.  i swear.  i’ve been absolutely swamped and honestly I haven’t been able to cook in such a long time.  good news though- i’m working at my favorite restaurant in the world.  come visit me during brunch.  also, lobster popovers and maple cotton candy atop brown sugar angel cake at towne stove and spirits in boston, best meal in a  very long time.

paella feast 2011 @ local 188 + birthday dinner round II

As you all know, I currently have an ongoing romance with Local 188.  Never have I had a bad experience there- in fact, I would go to the extent of saying that Local earns the spot of my absolute favorite restaurant in Portland.  Plus Jay Villani is a mastermind in the local culinary scene.  It’s only natural that Local 188 would be the venue for my semi-surprise birthday party.  But before we discuss birthday dinner part II, I must relay my experience at Local during Paella Feast 2011, hosted on January 1st, in order to clean house before the Local staff went on vacation for the first week of the new year.

A & I heard about Paella Feast through a little birdie- ie one of our favorite waitresses in all of town- Sarah who works close to nightly at Local.  For those who didn’t hear about Paella Feast, I’ll give you a quick run down.  All you can eat Paella, meat, veggie, or seafood, for $10 a head.  You could purchase salads and desserts on the side for extra cost.  And in all honesty, A & I lucked out.  We didn’t make a reservation, but we squeezed our way into seats in the lounge and indulged, to say the least.

We began our meal with a garden salad, filled to the brim with baby arugula, spinach, kale, rainbow swiss chard, red peppers, carrots, goat cheese, and a simple lemon olive oil dressing.  The salad ($9) was big enough to feed both A & myself twice- yes we had two servings.  Along with the salad, the Local staff sent over their home baked bread- both baguettes and an olive loaf with the most fantastic butter.  I can’t be entirely sure what Jay did with the butter- I think he must have added a lot of garlic and some other spice that I can’t quite identify, and whip it until it was light and fluffy and absolutely perfect and tangy for the bread.

For round one of Paella, I ordered the meat special, and A chose to do the seafood paella, as we both intended to sample off the others plate.  Needless to say, when mine came, my eyes were wide and I had no intention of sharing, simply because of the ample amounts of steak, chicken, and chorizo.  The chicken was incredibly tender, succulent, flavorful, clear traces of saffron and other indulgent seasonings.  The steak, cooked medium, juicy, red, six pieces per plate- and of course the chorizo, that garlicky goodness that comes in form of a spanish sausage.  Cut into bite size chunks, hiding beneath the layers of yellow rice with fennel and cumin seeds.  Extraordinary.  Out of this world.  Better than I can even tell you.

Plate two yielded the veggie- green beans, rabe, red peppers, olives, and capers galore.  While I love veggies, and I love paella, the meat stole my heart, and as if to be conservative at this all you can eat fest, my mom and I split our last plate of meat paella, bringing us both to the 2.5 plate mark that we promised ourselves we wouldn’t surpass.  The veggie paella had a stronger taste of fennel, and while I like fennel, it was borderline overbearing, yet I enjoyed it nonetheless.

To finish off Paella Feast 2011, we decided to behave ourselves and split a dessert.  Trent, aka homeboy, makes all the desserts at Local, and ever since I started eating there at age 9, I’ve always thought he was the coolest guy working at any restaurant in Portland.  To be honest, he’s straight up gangster- even though people have told me otherwise, and the desserts that he makes are out of this world breath-taking and mind captivating.  We settled on a lemon curd tart- without debate, and enjoyed every last morsel of that flaky crust, that tart filling, and those juicy blackberries used to garnish.

Now fast forward six days, and enter Local 188 at 7pm.  A party of 22 are seated- all for my semi-surprise birthday party.  22 high school students, from Portland, Casco Bay, and Waynflete, piled in, making their rounds after the art walk, all to help me celebrate my 17th birthday.  I had requested Sarah to be my waitress, and we were sat in the main dining room, a long table commanding attention from our fellow diners.  I sat at the head of the table, next to my beau and one of my oldest friends, looking down at all my guests, enjoying every moment of their company- not to mention the absolute hospitality of the restaurant with what, doing 22 separate checks for all of us.  The kitchen sent the entire table tastes of manchengo cheese and a radish chutney.  We were all served our appetizers in a timely fashion- things ranging from green salads, to quail eggs, to scallops, to the soup de la noche.

I must tell you how lucky I am to have such cultured friends.  The overall diversity in the food that was ordered, I found to be unreal.  Especially from a group of high school students, but regardless, it was to my liking.  Entrees ranged from paella, steak tartare, and quail, to gnocchi, tortilla de la noche, and the nightly prepared hanger steak.  I suppose I had been craving more, because I ordered the house paella, full of seafood, chicken, and chorizo, which although went under-eaten, due to my incessant mingling, was rather delicious and satisfying.

As if out of a fairytale, my mother, the infamous A, crashed my party (though I must say it was rather staged) and brought in homemade chocolate chocolate cupcakes, that fed the entire table.  After being serenaded with song, I contemplated whether or not I should blow out my candles.  Impulsively I did, meaning no wish, but hey, what more could I wish for? I’ve got great friends, I eat great food, and I’m happier than I’ve been in a very long time.  2011 has been shaping up to be a great year, and it’s only been fifteen days!

As I’ve digressed I should return to the topic at hand- and just say that Local was so accommodating, letting us stay as late as we wanted, catering to our whims (though we didn’t have any unreasonable ones), and being incredibly welcoming and personal.  This visit to Local defines my love of the place because everything turned out perfectly, the evening was better than I could have imagined, and I shared a spectacular memory with my favorite people in my favorite restaurant.  So even though I’ve recommended Local countless times before now, I’ll be completely blunt and tell you that if you don’t go, you’re surely missing out on one of the best restaurants that Portland has to offer.

[PS] I’m going to Local tonight, right after I get out of work, to celebrate a dear yogis trip to Asia for the next six months.  To Meg & Toji! Celebrate the good times to come, and safest travels.  xxoxoxo.

-e

loco loco local 188 review

truth be told, local 188 is probably my favorite restaurant in all of portland.  actually, anything Jay Villani does in food, i favour.  it’s taken me quite sometime to remember to bring my camera to local in the attempt of actually reviewing the place.  but yesterday morning, after our typical sunday morning stumble up congress street, i found myself at the regular spot at the end of the bar next to A, with my digcam in hand.  the night prior, we had gone to sonny’s- which until then i had protested… ask me why, and i will tell you, but i should have believed that if jay’s work at local is wunderbar, then it would be the same at sonny’s.  so the idea that i had committed a dirty double in both of mr villani’s places of business, made me content, as any foodie would be.  i had indulged the night before in a feast- fried avocado, chipolte cheeseburgers, chicken enchilladas, and raspberry sangria sorbetto.  sonny’s exceeded my expectations… and i plan on returning stat so i can take photos and do a review as well. 

i don’t know when i started going to local.  actually… i do.  it all began when a and i lived on the west end.  we’d meet j for brunch every sunday when i was in the 6th grade.  i would always order a grilled cheese and the daily soup.  sometimes if i was really hungry for “breakfast”, i would order their scrambles with carmalized onions, bacon, and machengo cheese.  i have very fond memories of the place, and it seems as though everytime i go, good times are rollin’.  as of late, i feel as though the one consistent restaurant i find myself in is local, and i have to admit, that’s not such a bad thing.

dinners at local are exquisite- their gnocchi is always light and crispy, the tortilla de nocha is also delicious.  the inclusion of locally harvested ingredients and seasonal specialities is one of the reasons, why not just me, but most in portland who have dined love local 188.

moving on to my brunch yesterday.  a and i ordered a bloody mary- the best in town, and while we battled over what we wanted to eat, we ordered a pecan sticky bun.  the caramel was gooey, and the cinnamon reigned supreme.  i couldn’t find the pecan, but that was okay, but i don’t really love nuts in my buns…(cooking sexual innuendos). the bottom was crispy, and the top melted in your mouth.  it was garnished with fresh strawberries and mint- it was pretty heavy, but delicious nonetheless.

a decided to go with her staple- a scramble.  she had red peppers and broccoli in hers- not to mention the house made english muffin on the side, with local’s savory homefries.  she seemed content with what she got, and she said the eggs were cooked to her liking.  she even enjoyed the homefries, which is a big step for her.  overall, she was happy, per usual with her brunch at local.

i decided to go on the more “lunch-like” route.  i picked the local 1/2 lb burger, which is served on their in house baked bun, with lettuce, tomato, onion, and homefries.  the burger was cooked medium well- just like i asked, and the meat was seasoned well, with a small amount of fresh herbs, and salt n pepa.  my homefries did me quite well, the little pieces of onion and green pepper were delicious, and i was very happy.  i do have to say, that this burger is one of the best in town- not to mention well priced.

we sat at the bar, our service was fine, and the day was beautiful.  as always, local made my day as great as it could be.  so great in fact, that i ended up sitting on their couch at 11pm the very same evening, enjoying conversation, and sipping beverages.  i guess this is where i should talk about the decor and atmosphere.  local has always been for locals- though as of late, more and more tourists and out of staters have journeyed to local after seeing them on the national food scene.  the tables are all vintage, and the chairs never match.  the space is large, yet intimate, and their is a very artsy feel about the place.  you can go to local with a group of ten and be seated comfortably, or you could go alone and experience the same comfort.  local art is hung from the walls, and a very hipsteresque track is always playing.  the staff is great, and not to mention, aesthetically pleasing.  all the tableware has been thrifted, and there’s a lot of character in the place.  the bar is handpainted, with fun, bold little illustrations.  all in all, local is the best environment for someone like me, and it’s situated in the best area of the portland arts district.

i love local, and i think you will too.