Gogi Review

For those of you who aren’t long-time subscribers or follower’s of my blog, I’ll start this post with a disclaimer: In the summer of 2010 I spent a few weeks in Seoul, South Korea with a cultural immersion program.  I was lucky enough to indulge in the world’s healthiest cuisine, as well as learn how to make some very traditional dishes.  Kimchi is what the Koreans are infamous for- fermented vegetables- most likely cabbage and the sort, with a distinct smell that will easily terrifying people who have never experienced kimchi before.  I tasted so many kimchis while in Korea that it became a part of my daily life, and even now, after it’s been seven or eight months, I still eat kimchi on a regular basis.  There’s a philosophy that goes along with kimchi in Korea- that being that each family has their own distinct kimchi.  As long as it’s a fermented veggie, it’s essentially kimchi- but that doesn’t mean it’s good kimchi.  There was something about all the kimchi that I consumed during my visit that was similar.  While they differed in ingredients, there was a similar taste in each of those firey spoonfuls (or should I say chopstick-fuls?).  But since returning back to the state’s, kimchi has tasted very different- and honestly, it’s not too great.

In the past year or so Portland has been overwhelmed with the addition of Korean Restaurants.  There’s Korea House, Little Seoul, and a few others that didn’t make the winter.  Nara Sushi by the mall, and Fuji also serve traditional Korean Fare, but it wasn’t until mid-April that the newest Korean Restaurant opened it’s doors on Congress Street.  Gogi isn’t just Korean- it’s Korean-Mexican Fusion- which is mighty popular out in California right now.  Tacos are the focal point of Gogi’s menu- and while it’s not going to be anything like Jason Loring’s Taco place that will be opening up across the street from his charter restaurant- Nosh (review to come…), it’s unique in it’s own way.  Now Portlanders can get tacos from El Rayo, Nosh, Gogi, and all the other Mexican Restaurants.  Honestly, I don’t really care too much about tacos.  They’re good sometimes, but I’ve never been blown away by one.  Fish tacos are nice during the summertime, but other than that, my mind wanders to crispy taco shells filled with mystery meat.  I didn’t even think that Gogi was going to serve tacos- in fact while I was reading about the mystery restaurant on Portland Foodmap, I was excited.  When I discovered that they were focusing on tacos, I lost a lot of my original enthusiasm, but I decided to go.  They boasted late night hours, and fresh ingredients, so I didn’t have any reason to not  give it a shot.

I went for lunch with a close friend, and we ordered two tacos each- Marinated Chicken (2), Tofu, and Marinated Short Beef (Galbi), plus some fried pork dumplings and french fries.  The tacos were alright- the kimchi didn’t live up to my expectations and tasted very much like Sunja’s Brand Kimchi which is sold at Whole Foods.  The tofu taco I liked the best- it was great, simply because I love tofu.  Otherwise I felt like they weren’t anything special, and had too much stuff packed onto the corn tortilla itself- which I might add ended up tearing apart upon picking it up.  I don’t want to eat my taco with a fork… and I guess they should have given more than one tortilla per order, because the amount of food could easily fill two tacos.  The cucumber salsa was delicious- maybe that was the high point of the tacos in general.

The dumplings were disappointing.  I love dumplings- especially if they’re fried- but I couldn’t taste the meat in these.  The shells were piping hot, and the sauce clearly wasn’t mixed right.  It either tasted too much like pure sesame oil, or rice vinegar.  Both are different flavors- I know, but that inconsistency was due to the fact that they didn’t mix their sauce well enough- it separated too easily.  When I order dumplings I want to taste the filling- the dough itself shouldn’t be the star- and unfortunately Gogi’s dumplings tasted like a fried wonton shell dipped in some pretty wretched sauce.

The fries were sorta weird.  I don’t understand why they were included on a Korean- Mexican Fusion restaurant’s menu, but they were.  To say the least they were good.  I mean, they weren’t like DuckFats or Five Guys, but they were comforting.  The Kimchi Aioli was a nice addition, and it makes me sad to say that this was the only part of my meal that I actually enjoyed.  Maybe Gogi is just getting over the new restaurant hump- I’m not going to cross it off my list entirely, seeing as I went within the first two weeks of it’s opening day- but the one thing that needs to change is the kimchi itself.  If you’re going to serve any form of Korean food- even if it is fusion, you better know how to make a Korean staple…

koreana review

first and foremost, i apologize for the wretched photos being paired with this wonderful post.  i have misplaced my camera for now- it’s somewhere in my mess of an apartment back in portland- that’s right 207, i’m MIA, so i had to use an iphone camera.  for those who are curious about my technological vices- No! I do not have an iPhone, nor do I plan on splurging on one.  I’m a bit confused by the touch-screen and other complicated features like that.  for starters, this post is not about technology, it’s about food, like i tend to write about, so no worries foodies, this blog is not catering to techies, it’s catering to you!

exactly one week ago tonight, i found myself in cambridge, ma at the entrance of koreana.  as i had posted way back in august, i am on a korean food bonanza ever since returning from seoul on august 21st.  koreana in cambridge is the only korean barbeque restaurant in the vicinity of portland, maine, and i knew that if i wanted to get the wine sam gyup sal, i’d have to make this trip down to MA.  obviously, i have other reasons to visit boston/cambridge area, so i did, and this is where i ended up.  walking into the restaurant i was immediately greeted by two korean hosts with warm hospitality- they didn’t even flinch when i mentioned that i was a party of eight, and soon enough we were seated at a bbq table, and our drink orders were filled.  it was swell being in the company of family last friday evening, and seeing as i got to share a part of my recent life with them, it made it all the more special. 

we started the evening off with an order of the pan-fried gyoza and a veggie korean pancake.  the serving size for the pancake was just right- eight pieces, cut like a pizza would be.  every bite had delicious pieces of scallions, shrimp, and onion.  the gyoza were small, but fried crisp, and the filling was savory yet satisfying- pork, scallions, ginger and onion.  the sauce was well blended- not too much soy sauce or too much sesame oil, just the right combination.  following our tapas, we ordered our entrees. three guests settled on shrimp bi bimbap, while another three settled on bulgogi, i chosed the wine sam gyup sal, and one chose the salmon teriyaki.  k & i used the bbq table, while the others prefered the have theirs cooked for them inside of the kitchen.  i like cooking on the grill on your table, because it gives you the chance to cook it to your liking, fry garlic until its crisp, and preoccupy your hands and cooking urges.  my portion was quite large- though it was said to feed one, it fed both of us quite well, and k’s serving of bulgogi fed us both too.  both of our meals were served with traditional sides, an assortment of kimchi, bean sprouts, fish cakes, rice, salad, and kelp, and post meal, we all got the fantastic korean digestif- Sujeonggwa- a tea made from cinnamon, ginger, and persimmons.  that made me miss seoul the most.  everyone was pleased with their meals, and i, well to be honest, a bit distressed.  it made me quite nostalgic, and then all of a sudden, i wished i were in seoul.  though i found myself traveling to 1369 cafe, where i treated myself to a nice hot vietnamese coffee.

i enjoyed the overall atmosphere in koreana, it was clean, classy, and modern.  the decor was aesthetically pleasing, black and wooden, and the lighting was nice and intimate.  the space is large, but it does not feel over-crowded to say the least.  a bar is off to the left side of the restaurant where you can watch the sox game, and eat sushi.  the owner was quite nice, when i said, Anyong-haseyo 안녕하세요.  he bowed, and responded with an “anyong!”.  the staff was attentive and quick, and they were all so pleasant when you spoke with them.  the food was delicious, as i’ve previously mentioned, for it transported me back to korea.  it’s a shame that there aren’t too many korean options in maine.  sure there’s happy teriyaki, soju, fuji, and nara, but if you want traditional korea as well as korean bbq, it’s worth the hassle to come down to cambridge for a day.  besides visiting koreana, you could also go to sweet cupcake in harvard square or cafe algiers.  a trip to lush and anthropology may also be in order, and to finish your night, post-koreana, i suggest doing the same thing i did- and that is to go to 1369 and have your caffine fix.  I love Koreana, and I strongly reccomend it.

i don’t take credit for cette photo; all courtesy of the koreana restaurant website.

PS: there’s a new korean restaurant bound to open on exchange street sooner or later- no it’s not korean BBQ but it still may be delicious, and you best believe that i’ll be reviewing it once it’s broken past the first 3 month stench.  oh ja, i’m also headed back to the infamous 207, so no worries, my leave of absence will be broken as of tomorrow evening.

-enfin