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Monthly Archives: November 2011

Joe Ricchio’s Rocky IV Wine Dinner at Bresca this evening- you know you’re missing out.  Dining with a group of gems, entitled “A Siberian Wonderland”, the menu is adorned with the following:

1:

So Fab Egg
smoked potato, caviar, soft quail egg, creamed ruby chard

NV Ambroise Cremant de Bourgogne, France

2:

Tallinn Fish Börd
beet and vodka cured gravlax….rye crisp
smoked sardine….charred levain
scallop……..parsnip curls

Dugges “Hip Hip Hooray” American Pale Ale, Sweden

3:

Quark Spätzle
caramelized onion, apple, gruyere

2008 Pannonhalmi Apatsagi Rizling, Hungary

4:

Beef Cheek Goulash
creamy corn grits, caraway crisp

2009 Sattler St. Laurent, Austria

5:

The Drago
vanilla soufflé, fruits of the forest, raspberry sorbet, salted burnt ember ice cream

2007 Clos Uroulat Jurancon “Clos Uroulat”

Can’t say I’m disappointed.  Caviar, burnt ember ice cream (from the master of pastry), beef cheek, and gravlax… what else do I need to be happy?

–enfin–

A shout out to Adam Goldberg, Nicholas Nappi, and Kelly Nelson for joining me this evening- couldn’t ask for a better bunch of folks.

I’ve posted about this topic one or two times before, but as we are on the brink of a new year, I feel it’s appropriate to mention, or maybe mention is the wrong word, ahem, I feel it’s appropriate to ask, yet again,
for an expression of interest in an underground supper club.  This idea has been bouncing around in my head for the past two years or so, and while I haven’t acted aggressively on it, I intend to do so this time around.  In collaboration with a well-known Portland face (his identity is being kept secret for now…) I have been in the early stages of planning this supper club.  Differing from previous propositions, I have decided to take on the role of chef (with the help of two other folks) instead of having it alternate from month to month.  The supper will be open to fifteen people (and only 15) every month.  We will be announcing the date of the supper a week in advance on Facebook, Vin et Grub, Portland Food Map, and via mass text (if you want to send me contact info, I’ll store it in my group of Port-City Eaters).  The first fifteen responses guarantee themselves a spot for that month’s dinner.  The location will be sent to the fifteen attendees a day after receiving their “rsvp”, (I can guarantee now that it will always be in Portland).

In terms of what will be on the menu depends on the month of course.  My partner in crime and I have discussed several different takes on how to design the menu- ranging from geographical themes, to Wars, to exotica.  Some months we’ll try and feature live music, others we will try and feature traditional art, and most importantly some months (the majority I suppose) we will try and feature traditional alcohol.

So now what?

Let’s say you are one of the lucky fifteen that “rsvp”s first… you will arrive at the specified location at the specified time.  There will be a communal table, where you’ll be able to mingle with other diners and enjoy your time.  Each dish will be explained to you upon it’s presentation at the table.  At this point we can’t guarantee a set amount of courses- but I suppose it’s better that way, you’ll be in for a surprise.  At the end of the meal, there will be a donation jar- we’re not asking for money from anyone, but just a small donation would certainly help compensate us for the expenses regarding the purchasing of ingredients/decorations/etc.  Donate if you feel compelled to do so– we won’t judge.  Meal times are expected to last a while…I’d give a ball-park estimate of at least 2 and a half hours.  So don’t expect this to be an in-and-out meal.

What I need from you now.

I need you to tell me if you’re interested.  The more interest I receive, the more I will be doing in the upcoming months to prepare for the first supper, which is scheduled to take place in January 2012.  So here’s what you can do: comment on this blog post, email me, facebook me, tweet me, or find me intown and let me know.  Without your interest I won’t be motivated to get things rolling.  So do it up PTLD, it’s time to get an underground supper club moving.

xx,

enfin

On Portland Foodmap over the past month or so reviews on Schlute & Herr have certainly swelled up… and for good reason.  I have dined there a total of three times, each with different company, and each time leaving fully
sated.  Offering both German breakfast and lunch, Schlute & Herr has certainly become my new go-to place.  German food, before now, was never particularly appealing, due in part to the stereotyped sausage, sauerkraut and pints of beer… wait… what’s wrong with me? That all sounds delicious right now… but I digress.  I suppose I used to think of German Food as something that would be served up at that horrendous restaurant in Brunswick– Richard’s.  But Schlute & Herr is certainly not part of that category, in fact, I feel as though it surpasses most of my previous go-to breakfast and lunch spots in town.

Upon my first trip to S&H I joined my lovely friend Jenna, who has just departed on a venture around the world, for lunch.  The fare was simple, we had an order of the potato pancakes and the pumpkin lentil soup.  Neither of us were apt to ordering much, for the night before we had completely filled ourselves with Boda, and even the thought of lunch the next day was still a little off-putting.  Regardless, we enjoyed what we munched on and enjoyed one another’s company.

A more recent visit- last weekend to be exact, rendered breakfast- my favorite meal altogether.  The day before I had dined at Bintliff’s (a huge fucking disappointment– I don’t think I will ever go back, but that’s an entirely different story) so my expectations for breakfast fare weren’t too high.  My dining partner and I decided to split the potato pancakes once again (ftw!), the waffle, and the bauernfruehstueck, a traditional German omelette.  The potato pancakes came first, blessing us with their crisp exteriors and their light-as- a-feather fillings.  Paired with incredibly delicious smoked lox, horseradish sauce, and a mixture of capers and cornichons (which if I do say so myself, are probably made on site), these were by far some of the best potato pancakes I have ever tasted.  I’m always concerned when I order potato pancakes because they tend to be greasy or flavorless, but Schlute & Herr has it down, serving me a plate that did not fall into either of those categories.  Perhaps what conveys this dish perfectly is that my dining partner and I ended up fighting over the last piece… sad but wonderful, isn’t it?

The waffle, supposedly my area of expertise, annihilated Bintliff’s Belgian waffle that I ordered the day before.  The batter crisped up perfectly, and was not too sweet.  Upon first bite you realize that this waffle, unlike the majority served out there, is miraculously airy, crunchy, and borderline elysian.  Topped with spiced plums, there wasn’t even an ounce of me that wanted a side of maple syrup (which is something that I always douse my waffles in).  I am being one hundred percent honest when I say that this waffle is possibly the greatest waffle you can find on the East Coast.  My dining partner agreed with me, and quite enjoyed the bites he managed– saying that the batter was “perfect”.  Must I say anything else? I thought so.

To end on perhaps the best note possible, I saved the bauernfruehstueck for last.  A traditional German omelette, made with chives, onions, and potatoes, I was skeptical at first.  Rather picky with how my eggs are prepared, I was glad that this was my dining partner’s choice and not mine.  But once the plate arrived at our table… I deeply regretted the fact that it was his and not mine.  What can I say other than, heaven-sent.  Seasoned to a t… succulent, savory… everything one could ever want in an egg dish.  The potatoes were tender, the eggs cooked perfectly- not too dry or wet… I don’t know what else to say.  I liked this so much that I went back four days later at 8am to have it again.  Some people tell me good things should be consumed in moderation… well, the bauernfruehstueck is something I have a hard time applying that sentiment to.  It’s just so tasty, so simple, and yet so wonderful.  In addition to all this, the housemade bacon is also fantastic… thickly cut, crispy, and salty… I’d say it comes close to Local 188′s house bacon.  I know that it’s been a while since I’ve gotten to post a review, and I’m deeply sorry.  I love this blog more than most things I do… it comes second to my actual cooking- I’ve just been caught up in a wild fall to say the very least.  As things are starting to wind down, I’ve found myself sitting on all this material that needs to get posted.  I’m quite glad however, that Schlute & Herr is kind of my welcome-back to the blogosphere post.  Next: Primo (sub-par?), L’Espalier, a biography of Nicholas Nappi, and Pacciarino.  I promise I won’t be disappearing anytime soon.  And the last thing I want to say? Run to Schlute & Herr… you can still make it in time for lunch.

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