On Portland Foodmap over the past month or so reviews on Schlute & Herr have certainly swelled up… and for good reason. I have dined there a total of three times, each with different company, and each time leaving fully
sated. Offering both German breakfast and lunch, Schlute & Herr has certainly become my new go-to place. German food, before now, was never particularly appealing, due in part to the stereotyped sausage, sauerkraut and pints of beer… wait… what’s wrong with me? That all sounds delicious right now… but I digress. I suppose I used to think of German Food as something that would be served up at that horrendous restaurant in Brunswick– Richard’s. But Schlute & Herr is certainly not part of that category, in fact, I feel as though it surpasses most of my previous go-to breakfast and lunch spots in town.
Upon my first trip to S&H I joined my lovely friend Jenna, who has just departed on a venture around the world, for lunch. The fare was simple, we had an order of the potato pancakes and the pumpkin lentil soup. Neither of us were apt to ordering much, for the night before we had completely filled ourselves with Boda, and even the thought of lunch the next day was still a little off-putting. Regardless, we enjoyed what we munched on and enjoyed one another’s company.
A more recent visit- last weekend to be exact, rendered breakfast- my favorite meal altogether. The day before I had dined at Bintliff’s (a huge fucking disappointment– I don’t think I will ever go back, but that’s an entirely different story) so my expectations for breakfast fare weren’t too high. My dining partner and I decided to split the potato pancakes once again (ftw!), the waffle, and the bauernfruehstueck, a traditional German omelette. The potato pancakes came first, blessing us with their crisp exteriors and their light-as- a-feather fillings. Paired with incredibly delicious smoked lox, horseradish sauce, and a mixture of capers and cornichons (which if I do say so myself, are probably made on site), these were by far some of the best potato pancakes I have ever tasted. I’m always concerned when I order potato pancakes because they tend to be greasy or flavorless, but Schlute & Herr has it down, serving me a plate that did not fall into either of those categories. Perhaps what conveys this dish perfectly is that my dining partner and I ended up fighting over the last piece… sad but wonderful, isn’t it?
The waffle, supposedly my area of expertise, annihilated Bintliff’s Belgian waffle that I ordered the day before. The batter crisped up perfectly, and was not too sweet. Upon first bite you realize that this waffle, unlike the majority served out there, is miraculously airy, crunchy, and borderline elysian. Topped with spiced plums, there wasn’t even an ounce of me that wanted a side of maple syrup (which is something that I always douse my waffles in). I am being one hundred percent honest when I say that this waffle is possibly the greatest waffle you can find on the East Coast. My dining partner agreed with me, and quite enjoyed the bites he managed– saying that the batter was “perfect”. Must I say anything else? I thought so.
To end on perhaps the best note possible, I saved the bauernfruehstueck for last. A traditional German omelette, made with chives, onions, and potatoes, I was skeptical at first. Rather picky with how my eggs are prepared, I was glad that this was my dining partner’s choice and not mine. But once the plate arrived at our table… I deeply regretted the fact that it was his and not mine. What can I say other than, heaven-sent. Seasoned to a t… succulent, savory… everything one could ever want in an egg dish. The potatoes were tender, the eggs cooked perfectly- not too dry or wet… I don’t know what else to say. I liked this so much that I went back four days later at 8am to have it again. Some people tell me good things should be consumed in moderation… well, the bauernfruehstueck is something I have a hard time applying that sentiment to. It’s just so tasty, so simple, and yet so wonderful. In addition to all this, the housemade bacon is also fantastic… thickly cut, crispy, and salty… I’d say it comes close to Local 188′s house bacon. I know that it’s been a while since I’ve gotten to post a review, and I’m deeply sorry. I love this blog more than most things I do… it comes second to my actual cooking- I’ve just been caught up in a wild fall to say the very least. As things are starting to wind down, I’ve found myself sitting on all this material that needs to get posted. I’m quite glad however, that Schlute & Herr is kind of my welcome-back to the blogosphere post. Next: Primo (sub-par?), L’Espalier, a biography of Nicholas Nappi, and Pacciarino. I promise I won’t be disappearing anytime soon. And the last thing I want to say? Run to Schlute & Herr… you can still make it in time for lunch.